1896.21.1 .2

Button greatcoat with attached hood, from man's costume. [FB 08/04/2015]

Place details: N AMERICA. Canada. Quebec Lorette. Cultural Group: NE Woodlands Wendat Local Name: Unknown. Materials: Wool Textile Animal / Moose Hair Animal / Bead / Metal / ?. Processes: Embroidered / Woven / ?. Colour: Blue Dimensions: Max L = 1300 mm Field Collector: John Jervis Tollemache? When Collected: 1840 - 1850 Other Owners: John Jervis Tollemache? PRM Source: Mrs L.A. Tollemache Acquired: Donated June 1896 Documentation: See RDF for full description by G.E.S. Turner; also info on collector PRM Image: Neg PR 85 H, PR 86 H, A3 F3 4 See Colour Slide; Museum digital photo [in case]; CS113.10

KEYWORD: Coat / Hood / CLASS: Clothing / Clothing Headgear / ?.

Object description: Button greatcoat with attached hood, from man's costume in blue blanket cloth lined with wool tartan material; with moosehair appliqué floral design. The coat has six buttons. The fastening edge of the cat has been lined with red textile. The cuffs, shoulders and pockets have been embellished with with moosehair appliqué floral design and fringing. [FB 08/04/2015]

Accession Book Entry - June The HON. MRS. L. TOLLEMACHE 'N American native man's dress, obtained about 50 years ago by the later Lord Tollemache.'

Additional Accession Book Entry - 1896.21.1-4 PR 85/86 H. number given - LW. G.E.S. Turner describes this suit fully; see Related Documents File. He describes it (on internal evidence) as QUEBEC PROVINCE village of LORETTE HURON INDIAN. .2 buttoned greatcoat with attached hood ... in blue blanket cloth lined with wool tartan material; with moosehair appliqué floral design.

Card Catalogue Entry - Suit consisting of a round cap or bonnet (.1), buttoned greatcoat (.2) with attached hood, and thigh length leggings (.3-4). All in blue blanket type cloth lined with wool tartan material. Trimmed with moose-hair embroidery.

Related Documents File - Typed notes of G. E. S. Turner: 'CANADA, QUEBEC PROVINCE, Village of LORETTE, HURON INDIAN. Suit consisting of round cap or bonnet, buttoned greatcoat with attached hood, and thigh-length leggings, in blue blanket cloth lined with wool tartan material. * The hatband, high military-style collar, epaulettes, pocket-flaps, and a panel on each legging are of balsam-smoke bucksin bearing moosehair appliqué floral designs in the classic Huron style derived from the Ursuline nuns' work. The panels are edged with red ribbon, and a band of red braid circles the legging just below the knee. Tufts of dyed moosehair in tin cones hang from the front edge of the hood, epaulettes, pocket-flaps and knee-bands. The cap has a red wool pompom and red tassel hangs from the point of the hood. The presence of leggings rather than seated trousers indicates that the outfit was intended for Indian wear. Acquired by Lord Tollemache about 1846; no history. Tribal assignments on internal evidence by GEST. A somewhat similar suit, but in sealskin, is in the Museum of the American Indian, Heye Foundation, New York, also identified as Huron. *(Details of the stuffs used, and measurements, I leave to you. GT)' This file also contains a pamphlet for Peckforton Castle, Lord Tollemache's home, which includes details of his biography. There are also photocopies of other information sources for Peckforton Castle and Beeston Castle. [MOB 8/10/2001]

Publications history, trails & websites: IIllustrated in black and white as Plate IX, B in Hair Embroidery in Siberia and North America by Geoffrey Turner (Oxford: Pitt Rivers Museum, University of Oxford, Occasional Paper on Technology, 7). The illustration is captioned (page 76) as follows: 'Bonnet, coat and leggings of heavy blue blanket cloth, lined with tartan and edged with scarlet braid. Panels of moose-hair embroidery on dark brown skin. Tassels of dyed moose hair in tin cones. Collected by Lord Tollemache, 18456. PRM: II.60.I.' [MJD 19/08/2011]

Referred to in note 58 on page 308 of Trading Identities: The Souvenir in Native North American Art from the Northeast, 1700-1900, by Ruth B. Phillips (Seattle and London: University of Washington / Montreal and Kingston: McGill-Queen's University Press, 1998). Phillips discusses a suit of clothes in the National Museum of Denmark (Hc 146 1-1): ‘A similar though probably slightly later suit in the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford (1896.21.1-4 [sic, 1896.21.1.1-.4]), was collected by Lord Tollemache about 1845.’ [JC 4 3 2013]

Research notes: Originally entered on database as Huron. [CW 11 6 99]

Other information: This suit is currently mounted on a wooden figure 1953.5.1 .23 given to mount Japanese armour. [FB 13/04/2015]